As Christmas approaches, those who carry on the tradition of a full hot lunch have an issue of the utmost importance ahead of them: how to make perfect pork crackling.
Research shows there are a few schools of thought here. And while I will outline a few of the more popular techniques, I can’t possibly detail every variation. So be your own guide.
My father-in-law made some of the most delicious pork crackling I have ever tasted. He claimed all he did was pour some vinegar over it before he put it in the oven. I tried this, and failed spectacularly. I suspect he left some steps out, which I wouldn’t have put past him. Sadly, he is no longer with us so I could nag him until he released all his secrets.
Learn to score
My preferred method, before cooking, is to recut the scoring, because inevitably the butcher has not cut it deep enough, and rub a generous amount of salt into the slits.
Then after the roast is cooked I cut the crackling off and finish it under the griller while I carve and plate the meat and vegetables.
I realise this method earns me the eternal scorn of roasting aficionados everywhere, but it works and it’s easy.
You may have to try a few methods until one works for you. Here are a few tips.
Dry argument
A few things everyone agrees on is keeping the crackling dry, both before and during cooking.
Your first step is to unpackage your cut and leave it uncovered in the fridge for a few hours, preferably overnight. This will dry out the skin for perfect crackling.
If you are scoring the skin yourself, make sure you don’t cut into the flesh below. If you do, any juices will bubble up into the crackling and moisten it.
If you want to open up the scoring, other than going over it with a knife, the simplest method is to pour boiling water over it and then thoroughly pat it dry. Thoroughly. Dry.
If you in any way doubt that it’s dry enough, Scottsdale Pork recommends using a hairdryer on a cold setting and waving that over the skin.
I can’t get that image out of my head, and frankly can’t wait to have a crack at it myself next time I cook pork.
Salty language
Use salt. Salt is the difference between a flat, shiny slab of pig skin and crispy, crunchy delicious crackling.
Get the salt to stick by rubbing vegetable oil over the skin first. It doesn’t have to be a lot, certainly not any more than a tablespoon unless it’s a particularly large joint.
Then massage well over the skin and into the scoring. How much you enjoy this is up to you.
Another taste opportunity is adding flavouring to the salt. It doesn’t have to be fancy. It could be as simple as a teaspoon of fennel seeds, a waft of garlic powder or a shake or two of Chinese five spice. There are also many flavoured salts out there – retail or make-your-own recipe – so it might just be a matter of finding your fave.
Let’s get cooking
The people from UK website LovePork – who you would think know about pork – have some strong opinions about crackling.
They recommend preheating the oven to 230ºC or 210ºC fan forced. Place the pork into the oven as near to the top as you can manage and leave for 20 minutes.
Reduce the temperature to 180ºC or 160ºC fan forced and cook for 35 minutes per 450g.
Do not baste. This was written in capitals, so they mean it.
Some topics consistently throw up diametrically opposed opinions. For example, red wine is good/bad for you. Childcare is good for socialising your children or might just turn them into axe murderers.
Pork cracking is a bit like that. So widely popular Australian foodie website Tin Eats recommends almost the opposite of the above.
So, long slow roasting and then turn up the heat at the end for crispy crackling.
Frankly, I don’t like pork enough to taste test the two methods, so if anyone has done that, hit me up in the comments section below and let me know.
Whatever you do, don’t focus on making perfect, crispy crackling at the expense of the pork underneath. Keep it nice and moist by adding stock or wine or both to the pan, and topping it up if required.
And I finally found out why my late father-in-law used vinegar. Apparently it’s another method to dry out the skin.
What’s your preferred method of making crackling? Why not share it in the comments section below?
Also read: Crispy Crumbed Pork Chops
