Winter is the time to prune deciduous fruit trees, vines and shrubs, because they are dormant and it’s easy to see what you’re doing. Pruning helps create a strong framework for a tree, encourages new growth, and can improve fruit yield and quality.
Most fruit trees need to be netted to protect crops from bats and birds, so keeping a tree to a manageable height makes this easier.
However, winter pruning doesn’t suit all trees and situations. Because it promotes vigorous growth, winter is not a good time to prune trees that are already too large. To limit its size, prune in summer. Summer is also the best time to prune stonefruit, especially apricots, which are prone to fungal infections, because the summer sap flow helps wounds heal.
Getting started
The first rule is to use clean, sharp tools – blunt edges make rough cuts that are vulnerable to disease. Use the right tool: branches thicker than your thumb will need loppers, and thicker branches need a pruning saw.
Avoid spreading disease by cleaning tools with methylated spirits between trees.
Cut to an outside bud. The new growth starts here and you don’t want it pointing inwards or down.
Cut about 5mm above the bud, at a 45-degree angle.
The first cut can be the most daunting.
First take out the three Ds: Any wood that is dead, diseased or damaged (including crossing branches).
TIP: If you’re not sure what’s dead, scratch the bark gently with a fingernail – if it’s green it’s alive.
Most ‘named’ fruit trees are grafted – they were formed by grafting a cutting from a tasty or prolific variety onto a rootstock valued for its resilience or growth habit – so remove any new rootstock growth from below the graft scar on the trunk, as this will draw energy away from the fruit-bearing part.
Shaping
Step back and consider what needs fixing. The goal is to create a vase shape with an open centre for good airflow and easier harvesting.
Fruit generally grows best from horizontal branches; vertical growth is harder to reach and less productive, so is best removed.
If planting new bare-rooted fruit trees, prune these too. The sapling lost roots when it was dug up, so trimming the top balances this out, plus it sets the pattern for future growth. To create a vase shape, cut out the central leader, select three or four strong side branches as the main leads, trim these to 30cm long (cutting to an outward-facing bud) then remove other whippy growth.
What not to prune
If your fruit tree hasn’t been pruned for years, don’t hack it all at once – this can either kill it or prompt excessive growth. Instead aim to slowly reduce its size by 20–25 per cent a year over two or three years.
Learn what fruiting wood looks like on your tree so you don’t chop it off! Apples and pears fruit on short spurs that produce for many years, peaches and other stonefruit on two-year-old wood, figs and quinces on new growth, and pomegranates fruit on established wood.
Finally, don’t forget you can always trim off more, but you can’t stick it back on, so if in doubt, leave it for another prune in late summer.
Other plants to prune now:
Perennials can be cut to the ground in mid winter, or later in frost-prone areas.
Grape and ornamental vines will benefit from a hard prune to the main trunk, leaving two new stems, each trimmed back to about 10 buds.
Roses: remove deadwood, crossing branches and weak branches from the centre.
What are your winter garden jobs? Why not share them in the comments section below?
Also read: How to go green with a gardenless garden
