Bali was once an idyllic paradise, a haven for artists who came from Europe to enjoy the tropical heat, the laid-back lifestyle and the appeal of beautiful women to paint.
It was part of the Dutch East Indies at the turn of the 20th century, having before that a history of kings ruling various areas of the island. The Dutch were not benevolent rulers in Java, Sumatra and Bali, and were responsible for massacres of the locals under the pretexts of protection for shipping and shipwrecks.
Colonialism reared its ugly head as it did in other parts of the Indo-Pacific and elsewhere. Bali was not unique for its history of atrocities, slavery and exploitation.
By the 1930s, anthropologists and artists helped to spread the idea of Bali being an enchanted land of people at peace with themselves and with nature, and Western tourism began. To look at paintings from that era is to see the locals through the eyes of outsiders – beautiful men and women wearing traditional dress, dancing, weaving, looking proud. No doubt many of the artists had relationships with the Balinese, their love for them clearly captured in the portraits.
Forgotten history
There is a stunning gallery in Nusa Dua called Pasifika, full of amazing art from the late-1800s to modern-day pieces. All of them show a Bali that few tourists have seen or will see.
Both times I was there, the gallery was deserted, manned only by a few staff keen to see outsiders appreciate their art and history. It was disheartening to see the place underappreciated and yet so close to the tourist vibe of Nusa Dua.
But today most of Bali is full of the crush of modern-day tourism, travellers coming for a range of experiences but in the process often destroying what they came to see. Some tourists come for the chance to be in a hot climate and lie by a pool. Others for the Instagram photo, posing in front of beautiful natural backdrops but pushing others away in the process. Others come to shop and buy fake luxury goods (but good quality) at a fraction of their genuine price. And who can tell the difference?
Locals losing out
Others come to eat fine food, with degustation menus, matched with wine from around the world (at exorbitant prices), run by Australian and overseas chefs. Foodie tourism is alive and well. Many of the meals are described as Asian fusion, a nod to the country the meal is made in but bearing little resemblance to the local cuisine. It is a licence to print money but little flows back to the locals except for underpaid, menial jobs.
The streets of Canggu are impenetrable at the best of times, with scooters screaming down every alleyway and footpath, delivering Uber eats and other delights to tourists trapped in villas. Scooters cost roughly $300, so every man and his dog are often on the bike together, emblazoned with the green hi-vis logo of some delivery company, taking huge fees from the transaction with little going to the actual labourer risking his life. Welcome to the gig economy in Bali. Because the traffic is so bad, the temptation is to order in food and hence the perpetual cycle of congestion continues. A veritable catch-22 to overuse that expression.
Uluwatu is little different now to Canggu, rice fields and scrub jungle being replaced by massive developments on a huge scale, concrete monoliths, all catering for tourists. Seminyak and Sanur are slightly better in their chaos, but if trends persist, then they too will become impenetrable.
Only for the wealthy
Nusa Dua is more peaceful but is really a gated estate for the wealthy tourist. There is talk at the moment of the Indonesian government placing a ban on new developments in Bali, with concerns mounting over the quality of life that is impacted on by greedy development.
If you want a quieter time than in Bali, then head to the islands of Lombok and Flores. Just realise that we tourists are the problem, often destroying what we came to enjoy.
Have you been to Bali? Did you like it? Why not share your thoughts in the comments section below?
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