I went to the Northern Territory and didn’t go to Kakadu.
There was method in my madness. It was a reconnaissance for next time. When we have a camper trailer in tow and we don’t want to venture into Darwin.
So the aim was to tick off Darwin, and a bucket list item for my husband – catch a barramundi.
Two days in Darwin and we headed for three days in Mary River National Park – a two-and-a-half-hour drive. The cheapest rental was fine, there was only about 15 kilometres of unsealed road (with corrugations) and a lot of red dust, but mild by NT standards.
Barra central, we were told by almost a local, was in the vicinity of Corroboree Billabong. Near there was the Point Stuart Wilderness Lodge. It looked basic but had good reviews and was a lot cheaper than Darwin. It also had some two-hour trips and a full (or half) day barra fishing offering. It wasn’t cheap, but a bucket list item is a bucket list item. Might as well nail it first up.
Read: Queensland outback through the eyes of a local
August is not peak barra season. That’s because the water is too cold, according to our captain and guide. And he was talking it down before we got into the car at 7am.
We were headed for Shady Camp, about 30 minutes away, first to collect one of the lodge boats and then to put it on the river a further 10 minutes away. I’d been apprehensive about whether there would be a toilet. There wasn’t. There was also no shade cover and it was an ever-reliable 33 degrees. So only dinkum fisherfolk should consider this.
But on to the positives. Twenty minutes in and my line went SNAP. That’s how the barra do it. We’d been trawling with lures – no live bait was used. Exciting? You bet. The guide called instructions. Brace your leg against the side. Move down a bit. Bring him around. Within minutes, the deed was done – for me. A 78cm barra – perfect eating.
Hubby had to wait about four hours and came in second best with the only other barra we kept. It was 68cms. We caught 11 all up but the rest went back.
Read: NT campaign tempts southern tourists
Along the way, we saw hundreds of crocs, a lot of birdlife and just two other boats. Yes, it was hot. Thank heavens I had a fold-up brolly in my backpack (only a Melburnian would have that!) and yes it was tiring. The thing is that even though we were happy to head home at about 2pm, we couldn’t get back in until after 5pm because of the tides.
Bucket list outing it definitely was.
The guide kindly filleted our fish and handed a more than ample bag to the lodge cook who did a magnificent job. Tasted better than any wild barra I’d ever tasted. Of course it did! The rest we gave to the guide and staff.
Point Stuart was a great base. We also did a billabong cruise at the Rock Hole and a sunset safari through the Sultan of Brunei’s cattle station (both about two hours). A very knowledgeable guide pointed out hundreds of birds, and crocs, and buffalo and banteng. Both were great value for money and numbers are capped, so book early.
The rooms were super clean, the pool very refreshing, the Jimmy Creek Walk interesting and there’s a massive area for campers. A fisherman’s paradise.
Read: How to see the real Bali
So, suggestions for seven nights in Darwin:
Mindil market (Thursdays and Sundays from the last Thursday in April until the last Thursday in October). Dozens of food trucks and that awesome sunset. The promo says you can bring wine, but we didn’t see a soul drinking so left ours in the bag. Of course, very few swim. The crocs you would be able to see, the box jellyfish and irakanji not so easy.
Military Museum. A treasure trove and super interesting. Who knew there had been 60-plus bombing raids in 1942 with almost 250 deaths? Allow at the very least several hours to take in everything it has to offer. You could make it a day.
Bicentennial Park on the Esplanade. More details about the bombings. So much to learn.
Hanuman. A long-time classic and we can vouch for that. Phat Mango was also suggested and was okay. Staff obviously a problem in Darwin, as it is everywhere.
Waterfront precinct. Dozens of cafés and bars, a wave pool, lawns, inflatable obstacle course and massive walled area for swimming. Perfect for families.
Day trip to Litchfield National Park. An easy drive and easy walks once you’re there. Cascades and Wangi Falls were delightful. Beware the scrub typhus mites, i.e., read the signs at the entrance to the Cascades and do as told. They warn not to sit with bare legs on the ground. We did and noted later that the backs of our legs were covered in itchy spots.
What holiday mistakes have you made? Have you ever booked a break that was far too short? Have your say in the comments section below.
