Traveling to China is like diving into a treasure chest of wonders. Every day out sparkles with history, culture and culinary delights. My recent trip immersed me and my teen in a lifestyle so distinct from anything in Australia that I hardly gave a thought to anything back home, which is how I personally like to holiday.
Beijing and the Great Wall: a step back in time
We arrived in Beijing at five in the morning and met our guide. He led us to his car, explaining that it was a perfect morning for chair-lifting to the top of the Great Wall and traffic was about to get heavy. He knew his business, because it was over an hour’s drive to this section of wall, and traffic started getting worse about the time we left the city limits behind. Genius.
Important: Beijing has three international airports. Bear this in mind when you book any airport transfers or car pickups.
Getting around – without speaking the language
We covered five cities in two weeks, travelling mostly by bullet train between towns, and booking cars via our Alipay or WeChat pay apps when needed.
We also caught metro trains a couple of times, which I’d never have done if we hadn’t travelled with locals who spoke both Mandarin and Cantonese. Booking the tickets (again, via the apps) isn’t easy if you don’t understand the routes, stations, or the town names.
Of the five cities I visited on this trip, four are among China’s top five largest:
- Beijing (22 million)
- Chengdu (22 million)
- Guangzhou (19 million)
- Chongqing (32 million)
The fifth place we visited was Xian, which is relatively small with only 13 million people. This is still more than three times the population of Sydney!
In Australia, we’re used to a large geographic scale, but I’ve never experienced anything like the sheer crowds of people we encountered in China. There are a LOT of people doing a lot of different activities all at once in these vast cities.
It’s easy to get lost, and easier to get run down. Pedestrian road rules seem more like suggestions, so take care when crossing any roads, laneways or driveways. Look both ways – repeatedly – and watch out for the scooters.
Important: you don’t need a licence to ride a scooter in China. Kids as young as 12 are on and off the footpaths, sometimes with younger siblings seated in front or on the back, and you know those Deliveroo drivers we yelp about over here? You’ll encounter hundreds of them a day in a Chinese city, often with one eye on their phone.
A foodie’s delight
Dining in China was one of my favourite parts of our trip. I discovered dishes and flavours that I’m still craving after being home all these weeks.
The hotels we stayed at offered both Western and traditional breakfasts, including drinking yoghurt and warmed fruit juice. There’s also chow mein and bao buns as well as congee. Boiled eggs are also standard. There was also plenty of Chinese tea. Almost anything can be delivered to your hotel room too – again, using your apps. I even found a local coffee chain that covered my one travel essential.
Dinner was often an event for us. We started with peking duck in Beijing. Crisp skin, tender meat and thin pancakes made for a combo so divine it deserved a standing ovation. We grew more adventurous as we travelled, enjoying traditional hotpot meals in Chengdu and Chongqing for less than $20 (that’s dinner for four by the way – with an exchange rate of around $1AUD:4.5RMB).
I enjoyed bird saliva dessert in Guangzhou, while my teenager tried brains and new versions of tofu. We both ate bullfrog soup in Chengdu. (The frog part was fine – the spiciness, on the other hand, cleared our sinuses into next year).
Is it crowded?
I only felt crowded-in at the larger tourism attractions like the Forbidden City (Beijing) and the terracotta warriors (Xian). Unlike Europe, or even parts of Australia on a public holiday, the constant presence of security staff – especially around the Forbidden City – meant I never felt unsafe. I remember leaving the Louvre years ago and triple-checking my wallet and passport. Not the case in China.
Other than the main attractions, most of the queues I stood in were for toilets (‘potty’ western style or squat). The latter are far more numerous and you’ll queue for less time, but watch out for your shoes.
Going cashless
Forget wallets; in China, your phone is your lifeline. WeChat Pay and Alipay rule, and even roadside fruit vendors accept them. One of my most amusing moments was visiting the Yan-Wenshu monastery, where we each made an offering, and then were able to have a wise conversation with a monk.
This monastery is over 1000 years old – and donations are accepted via Alipay or Wexian pay via a QR code. This innovative blend of tradition with technology is found throughout China.
Other points to note about the money is that tips aren’t expected, and services are of incredible value. I had my hair done three times, because it was $20-35. I had a foot massage every other day, for around $20 (I mean, all that walking, right?). I also learnt to bargain (with some help from my native-speaking friends).
The most memorable part?
Apart from my bucket list moment in Xian, where I saw the warriors and visited the ongoing dig site (they’ve only begun unearthing the stone cavalry), it’s the sheer scale of the place that sticks in my mind.
The mountains (surrounding every town we visited), the energy, the constant teeming activity – and the warm good humour of the locals – is what made this trip so memorable. I felt welcomed wherever we went. More than the food or landmarks, it’s the people who leave a lasting impression.
Would I go back?
I’m already planning to visit the east coast next year, so that’s a loud shì de (or yes).
Would you consider a trip to China? Why not share your opinion in the comments section below?
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