‘Horse Parking Only’. You know you’re in for a treat when this sign greets you outside the 11th Street Cowboy Bar. Once through the swinging doors, neon signs of beer brands illuminate Texan number plates and memorial cowboy hats that adorn the walls. But it’s the abundance of bras hanging from the ceiling that raises our eyebrows.
We follow the twang of country music into a large, open dance floor where couples are swinging to the beat of a live band. The intoxicating smell of Texan barbecue wafts through the air as the chatter of families and friends adds an electrifying buzz.
When we’re joined by a few cowboys we’d met earlier in the day, we take our newly acquired cowboy boots for a test run by joining them for a bit of two-step line dancing. The locals applaud our efforts, especially as a group of city girls.
This traditional honky-tonk is located just off the main street of Bandera – which, despite having a population of fewer than 1000 people, proudly boasts that it is the Cowboy Capital of the World. It earned the title when it became a staging area for the last great cattle drives of the late-1800s.
We had a chance to live out some of its rich traditions earlier in the day, starting with a sun-soaked horseback ride through rugged, rolling hills. Despite my lack of experience, my trusty steed for the day, a gentle, older horse named Blue, eased my worries with his steady plod. Our journey took in views of the Texas Hill Country and was soundtracked by tales of ranch life shared by cowboy guides from the 5th-generation family-run Dixie Dude Ranch.
Bucket list
After being called a “crafty heifer” by a cowboy who tried and failed to lasso me, we headed down the road to learn some cattle wrangling for ourselves at the neighbouring Rancho Cortez. While learning how to spin lasso as they do in every Western film was on my bucket list, hand feeding a longhorn cow made me feel like I’d truly earned my cowgirl-for-a-day badge.
It’s quite hard to believe this world, which has clutched onto its Western roots so tightly, exists just an hour’s drive from San Antonio or around two hours from Austin, the state’s capital city. In our pursuit of what more the Texas Hill Country has to offer, we head to Fredericksburg, an hour north of Bandera. The town was founded in 1846 after German settlers arrived, bringing traditions that are still present today, including a popular Oktoberfest celebration.
Its quaint main street is lined with independent cafes, restaurants and shops where I have to restrain myself from buying too many souvenirs solely due to suitcase restrictions.
On the menu
Fredericksburg lies in the heart of the wine country, with more than 60 wineries surrounding the town. In the evening, we take a seat at the Cabernet Grill that turned heads when it discarded all varieties of wine except Texan in a bid to bring the local nectar to the forefront. Our server enthusiastically talks us through each bottle while pairing it with dishes from their mouth-watering menu.
If I had not reached full food bliss through their take on Texas Twinkies (bacon-wrapped jalapenos stuffed with sausage and redneck Cheddar), then I was certainly there after trying their lion’s mane mushroom topped with butter, Gorgonzola, garlic and lemon.
That night, we retire to our cosy individual cottages at The Trueheart Hotel, just steps away from the main street. A true homely feel is created by a fireplace at the end of the king-size bed and a wicker basket being left on your doorstep the next morning with a warm biscuit (otherwise known as a scone) and fresh juice.
Before we depart Fredericksburg, we stop by Longneck Manor that is home to a ‘crash’ of rhinos and a ‘tower’ of giraffes who roam across acres of land. Feeling the soft but firm skin of a six-year-old 4000lb rhino named Fred and having a pair of giraffes drool over my hand as I feed them their lunch is a memorable experience, one only made better by hearing about the conservation efforts being made to protect their African cousins in the wild.
Peace treaty
Native American culture is also present within the hill country, with Fredericksburg believed to hold the only unbroken peace treaty between Native Americans and US settlers. We get a taste of this history being honoured on a sun-drenched hike to Enchanted Rock, a huge pink granite dome that was revered by local tribes and is now protected.
We later time our stop in the city of San Marcos to arrive for the Sacred Springs Powwow, a celebration of culture from across Native America. When we arrive, the beat of drums and a chorus of singers draw us into a large tent where hundreds of performers proudly display the traditional style of their tribe. Some feature an abundance of feathers, others with bells, but all are striking and beautiful, and I can’t help feeling moved when watching the ceremony.
Down by the river
On the way to San Marcos, we spend time in New Braunfels. It is here that the Comal and Guadalupe rivers meet, meaning there are plenty of water activities on offer, from fishing to swimming, and a local favourite – tubing. Donning our swimsuits and water booties, we head down to the river with our rubber rings courtesy of 444 Tubing. Coming in the ‘fall’ means we still get to soak up the 30C heat but we mostly have the waters to ourselves, aside from a few ducks and turtles who come to greet us, and it is a wonderful, tranquil two hours.
Alongside the newer pursuits, the city still honours its heritage with its Gruene Historic District, which boasts antique shops and an authentic cowboy hat story. It is also home to Gruene Hall, the oldest continuously operating dance hall in Texas, built in 1878. A stop-off here allows us one last chance to perfect our line-dancing skills before we head home. We end our night back at Prince Solms Inn, a hotel that has long been part of the city’s history before being renovated into the tastefully decorated spot it is now.
In a whirlwind week through the Texas Hill Country, it feels like we have sampled every morsel of tradition and culture it has to offer. I can confirm everything is bigger in Texas – and that includes my suitcase, now bulging at the seams with new cowboy boots.
How to plan your trip
America As You Like It (americaasyoulikeit.com; 020 8742 8299) offers a six night holiday to Texas including car hire, accommodation, and flights to Austin.
For more information on the destinations, go to traveltexas.com
Have you ever been to Texas? Why not share your experience in the comments section below?
Also read: Seven of the best US cities to visit if you’re over 60
– With Naomi Clarke
