Known as the gateway to the Kimberley, Broome is situated as far away as you can get from the concrete canyons of Australia’s cities. Located on the north west coast of Western Australia, it’s roughly halfway between Darwin and Perth. It first became a settlement on Dampier Creek in Roebuck Bay when the pearling industry was established in the 1870s. In its heyday Broome supplied 80 per cent of the world’s pearl shell – used in buttons, musical instruments and cutlery – and up to 400 pearl luggers could be seen moored at Streeters Jetty. The expatriate pearl masters lived a life of excess, wearing white suede shoes in the rich red dust, sending laundry to Singapore fortnightly, and playing tenpin bowling with bottles of French champagne.
In 1883 when Broome was gazetted as a town, the Governor of Western Australia, Frederick Napier Broome, wrote to his masters in England that he objected to his name being used for a town of shanties
Today Broome is anything but a shantytown, with a population of 15,000 that swells to 45,000 people during the tourist season. During our visit to Broome we are quickly captivated by its frontier town attitude, endless range of social activities and striking natural beauty. So here are our ten top picks for sights to see, things to do and places to stay when you visit.
The Festival is the culmination of the tourist season, held in September before the oppressive wet season begins. Running for 10 days it’s a wonderful showcase of local history, cuisine, music, dance and all manner of artistic endeavor. The ‘Taste of Broome’ concert and hawkers market is just one of many inclusive events that help visitors experience the best of Broome in a few short hours. This year the festival will run from Friday 13 September to Sunday 22 September.
Located in the former Union Bank built in 1910, Matso’s microbrewery produces a range of mighty fine ales, which can be enjoyed in the garden while listening to local musical talent. Indoors, a more formal restaurant offers innovatively prepared local produce.
The Courthouse was originally built as the cable station using materials imported from Scotland and England. Today, it is where local traders gather every Saturday morning in the season to sell their wares that are a step above normal market clutter. Browse your way through stalls showcasing easy silk dresses, handmade soaps and candles, locally grown coffee, indigenous art, and tasty snacks – there literally is something for everyone.
Local indigenous musicians
Talented musos abound in Broome. We enjoyed the music of the Pigram brothers on our first night at Taste of Broome. Later, we heard the dulcet tones of Katie Hill at the Broome Courthouse Markets. And there are plenty of other venues that celebrate the deep talents of the locals. Their sound is ‘ little bit country’, but also a soulful insight into the challenges and joys of life in the outback.
This is a logical starting point for your trip to Broome. Here you will learn about the early indigenous people, the settlement by the pearlers, the threats during WWII and more recent history.
Great cafés
The Aarli in Hamersley Street is our favourite, but 18 Degrees runs a close second. The Aarli offers breakfast, lunch and dinner, opening at 8am. The food is delicious, the service casual, and the tropical garden is extremely relaxing. Tucked away opposite the museum in Robinson Street, 18 Degrees is funky and fun. Cocktails on the deck at sunset are a real treat.
Cemetery
Four cemeteries sit together in the middle of town as a final resting place for Japanese, Chinese and Islamic local settlers, and indigenous people. The Japanese section, commemorating so many young men who lost their lives diving for pearls, is well maintained thanks to generous grants from the Japanese Government and community. Equally poignant are the sections devoted to those from other parts of the globe, as well as the local aboriginal people.
If you’re seeking a central, friendly apartment-style complex with pool, BBQ area and self-catering kitchen, then seek no further. The Broome-Time Lodge provides clean, spacious and affordable accommodation. It is ideal for ‘fly-ins’ or Grey Nomads alike.
As surely the most beautiful beach in the world. Staying at Cable Beach Club Resort makes it easy to enjoy this stunning stretch of coast at dawn, dusk and in between. Whether taking a gentle stroll, swimming or perhaps riding a camel, the combination of sapphire-blue sea, glistening white sand and rocky red cliffs make it a photographer’s delight.
The best way to get around Broome is on the local bus. At $4 one-way, or a $10 day pass, it’s a great way to reach most of Broome’s attractions – and to meet the locals. And seniors travel for just $2. Unbeatable.
